4.2 V8 Engine

The 4.2 Engine as bought, it was sourced from a Written off Range Rover LSE.  It was a 1994/95 late model, one of the last ones to be made.

The 4.2 as bought, straight out of a written off LSE.

From the front, with the Air con compressor and power steering pump removed

Various Photos showing the engine in bits.

Only the top end was done, as on inspection the bottom end was in very good condition, the engine had only covered 45000 miles

The newly rebuilt engine in place.

Update 25/08/05

I had a problem with lack of oil pressure. I started up the engine after replacing the ignition system after it was repaired and it sounded fine so I thought I took it for a quick spin.  After about 1/2 mile the oil warning light came on, so I decided to head straight back.  By the time I got back on the drive, the tappets were starting to sound very noisy.  I shut everything down and checked it out.  Nothing was obvious, so I suspected the worst.  The only way I was going to find out what was wrong was by having a closer look inside.  So I set about stripping it all down.

Hear you can see the start of the strip down.  Out of interest you can see here how much better the heads are on the later engines.  you can see how much closer the openings on the head itself match up to the gasket.  There is not much more work you can do to get them much better other than smooth out the interior.  Its a composite gasket used on the later engines.


I couldn't find anything that would have made the oil pressure drop off drastically like it did.  There were no broken shells no spun bearings.  The rocker gear was slightly worn, but certainly nothing that bad.  The cam and tappets all looked fine too.  So everything was pointing to the oil pump.  As the engine has a serpentine front end, it also has the crank driven oil pump.  So this means that the whole timing cover needed to come off.  What I found was that the oil pump cover was scored slightly on one side, but more importantly, it was only on hand tight on one side.  So it looked like the oil was possibly leaking past the oil pump cover and maybe the gears had turned slightly, causing them to dig into the cover on the timing cover itself. 

Here you can see the internals of the oil pump and in the later picture you can see the oil pump cover.  Note the scoring, its deeper on one side and almost non existent on the other.  This is where the cover was only hand tight.


I decided that the best thing would be to replace the entire front timing cover assembly.  Whilst I was at it I also replaced the Timing chain as it was definitely stretched.  It had about an inch of movement.  You can see the chain looks like it is slightly bulging in the picture on the left, compared to the new chain on the right that is taught and straight.


As the rocker gear was also showing signs of slight wear, I decided to renew that too.

After rebuilding it all back and primed the oil pump by back filling.  I left the plugs out and spun the engine over with the battery a couple of times until the oil warning light went out.  This took about 15 seconds, but showed that I was getting good oil pressure.   After putting all the plugs back in and connecting up all the electrics I turned the key and it fired up immediately and quietened to normal after a few seconds.  It looks like that the oil pump may have been on the way out for a little while as I do recall that the oil warning light would usually not go out for a couple of seconds after starting the engine.  Now with the new one the oil warning light goes out almost instantly the engine fires.  So all is well again, except for the big hole that I now have in my wallet.

Now that I have a spare timing cover casing with oil pressure switch, I will invest the time to make an adaptor to be able to fit the oil pressure gauge sender unit in.  Then I will be able to monitor the oil pressure more accurately.